ENCOUNTERING SOUL- FROM THANALA TO THANAMANDI

Nazar Ul Islam                               

From Thanala to Thanamandi, from Bhaderwah to Rajouri, and from Chenab valley to Pir Panjal Valley I have encountered numerous people, places, witnessed events, and accounts of life, and saw changing weather, drove through mountain passes and left serene scenes behind. I witnessed clouds and birds floating and flying in Thanala in a linear motion and with sequence and symphony. The last resort from Bhaderwah to chamba is Thanala; we used to call Thanala-End of the world.  During the winters, Padri Pass gets blocked by snowfall, so does the way to Himachal.  Padri Pass connects Himachal with Bhaderwah, PKG (Peer Ki Gali) pass connects Kashmir with Rajouri and Poonch. Simthan top connects Kashmir with Kishtiward, and so does Banihal Pass connect Kashmir with Banihal and leads the way to Jammu.  I was lucky to see and understand this geography because of my transfer from Anantnag to Bhaderwah, and then from Bhaderwah to Thanamandi (Rajouri). I would drive through many districts of the Jammu division; Kishtward, Doda, Ramban, Udhampur, Jammu, Reasi, Rajouri, and Poonch.  

In Bhaderwah we used to drive to places nearer to mountain passes to catch snowfall, the view of Pine, watch cattle grazing the pastures, listen to the murmuring of water and calm our souls while witnessing the smoke oozing out of huts prepared of mud and wood for the summer nomads who like us had covered a long distance to graze the cattle and feed their families.  One such place close to the sky and white snow was Thanala, a place where things are set in order naturally, flora and fauna is exquisite, and simplicity is delicate and apt for the mountains and far-off places like this. A cup of tea, an omelet or a Maggie you get to eat may look simple but good to energize your soul. The other places opposite to Thanala are Guldanda, Sarthal and a parallel valley called Jai ; a recopy of Thanala that offer same recipes and disconnects from Kathua, Bani-Basoli, and Bhalesa. Sarthal and Jai close like Thanala during the winter. During summers snow melts, so do these places open like a flower out of a bud. Thanala however connects us to other hill stations; like Khajiar, Darjeeling, Dalhousie etc., thus making the travel worth entertaining.

 When I first arrived in Thanala, the place captivated me with its birds, trees, water cascading from the mountain passes, and the sounds of cuckoo birds. The roads were dapple with scattered sunlight during the evening, and the sunsets peeping through the floating clouds soaked me into an extraordinary atmosphere. As I stood there with my friend, the work of art we witnessed enveloped both of us. Birds chirped musically, creating harmony with nature, trees whispered swaying gently into the Breeze. The rhythmic melody created by running water and its soothing murmur blended with the rustling leaves. I don’t even forget the cup of tea near a campfire during the evening. Clouds had a different description. They had a silver lining, casting a soft, ethereal glow over the landscape. There is beauty in the struggle of life. The rugged roads and the untamed wilderness speak of raw, unfiltered existence that many in our times yearn for. There is peace in Thanala that lies precisely in the toughness of life it offers. Thanala demands resilience for survival, by this struggle it preserves its original soul and offers a sanctuary for the rest of the species.

But in Thanamandi roads are desolate and uninspiring, offering little for a traveler to see the scenes and calm the soul. If you want to feel like Kashmir or Thanala, then you have to travel to PKG (peer Ki Gali). The whole Pir Panjal Range is meant for trekking dozens of kilometers, only then it may provide a scene or a view. Places like Darhaal have a good view but once you reach the place it offers less to the eye. It is however studded with mosques. The whole Pir Panjal valley has no easy scenes to offer. Even the sound of the water cascading from the mountain passes is tainted with murmur of mud-laden brooks, rarely carrying clean water. The mountains, stark and lifeless, remind you of Doda to Kashtigarh road patch, as they bear sparse pine trees and offer minimal shelter for birds, resulting in almost eerie silence. There are few shadows to provide relief from the harsh sunlight, and sunsets, often hidden by the terrain are rare and fleeting. This landscape, stripped of natural beauty is barren and unforgiving.

From my balcony, Thanamandi however unfolds a scene of breathtaking beauty. The clouds drifting in from Darhaal float gracefully over a small mountain range, creating a serene and picturesque view. Nestled within this landscape is a magnificent mosque, a stunning piece of architecture that provides charm to view. A gentle brook winds its way through this scenery, adding to a tranquil ambience.  The road that I see from my balcony is during the summer lively with the presence of migrating cattle and shepherds, reminiscent of the slow, deliberate march of Roman cavalry , as they make their way past my room towards Kashmiri pastures. The sight of goats walking and flaunting as if on a ramp walk embellishes the scene, creating a moving tapestry of life and tradition.

Amidst all this, the mosques call to prayer. Or Azaan, echoes five times enveloping Thanamandi in a sacred serene atmosphere. The sound merges with the landscape, draping the town in a glorious, almost otherworldly cover, and reminding me of the peace found in this unique spot.